Compare Dubrovnik to Athens by Intrepid Travel vs Northern Greece, Albania & Macedonia: Ancient Lands of Alexander the Great by Overseas Adventure Travel

Day 1 Dubrovnik

Dobro Dosli! Welcome to Croatia – a place of sunshine, azure waters and charming cobblestone towns. The undisputed jewel of the Dalmatian Coast, Dubrovnik old town is a beautiful white stone town surrounded entirely by city walls, easily covered on foot. Although it experienced devastation during the war in the early 1990s, the restored old town remains as charming as ever. Your adventure begins with a welcome meeting at 6 pm. As there is not much time in Dubrovnik on this trip, you may want to consider arriving one or two days earlier. If you do have time beforehand, why not head out to one of the Elafiti Islands? There's Lopud, a quiet island with lovely hikes, clean beaches and a ruined castle. Kolocep is a sleepy enclave that boasts walks for every fitness level, while Sipan is the most populated of the isles and has the most hospitable locals. There are also many monuments to explore in the city proper, including the 15th century Rector's Palace, monasteries with cloistered gardens, and fine baroque churches with copper domes.

Day 2 Kotor

Leave Dubrovnik behind and take a private transfer to Kotor on the coast of Montenegro (approximately 3 hours). This 5th-century World Heritage-listed city is set on a secluded bay, with towering peaks surrounding a rocky coastline dotted with pretty waterside towns. In its crooked alleyways, get lost and mingle with the locals. When you arrive, why not check out the 12th-century Cathedral, the South Gates, and the Armoury Square? Later, perhaps take a cruise on the Kotor Fjord – the longest fjord south of Scandinavia – and visit an island with a church that's almost as big as the island itself! In the evening the city walls are prettily lit up to provide a unique night-time perspective.

Day 3 Tirana

After breakfast, drive across the border into Albania. A unique mixture of cultures and customs, Tirana is filled with craziness, from its traffic to its nightlife, but on its doorstep are mosques, citadels, Ottoman architecture, and a stunning dose of the medieval Balkans. The real surprise of Albania is the people. Their warmth to strangers is infectious and you’re bound to find yourself swapping stories over a glass of raki or three. Our first stop is the city of Shkoder (approximately 3 hours’ drive from Kotor). Here you will have time to explore Rozafa Castle. The site was occupied by a fortress since Illyrian times, however most of what can be seen today is of Venetian origin. Depending on road conditions and volume of traffic it will be another 2 hours to Tirana. On arrival, take an orientation walk to get your bearings. Tirana is the capital of Albania and its biggest city, but it's still small and compact, with architectural influences from Italy and Turkey. Recently many buildings have been painted to alleviate the Soviet bloc feeling that pervaded. Many upgrades have been made all over town, such as new parks and wide pavements.

Day 4 Kruja / Tirana

Today, take a half-day trip to the mountain village and former Albanian capital of Kruja. Kruja was the last stronghold of Skanderbeg's (the national hero of Albania) army until the Ottomans took over the entire country. There is plenty of time to explore the citadel and the famous bazaar area. Perhaps pay a visit to the excellent ethnographical museum housed inside the fortress. You’ll then return to Tirana after lunch. Tirana is dotted with many museums. You can't miss the National History Museum – just look for the gargantuan mosaic on the facade that represents the development of Albania's history. The main sight in Tirana is the Et'hem Bey Mosque, which sits right on the city's main square. Closed under communist rule, the mosque resumed as a place of worship in 1991. Ten thousand people attended the reopening and the event was considered a milestone in the rebirth of religious freedom in Albania. The mosque is currently undertaking extensive renovation works, but you can still take a look at the frescoes outside and in the portico that depict trees, waterfalls and bridges – motifs rarely seen in Islamic art.

Day 5 Berat

Travel by public bus to Berat, the town of a thousand windows, and one of the few towns of Albania that escaped being razed to the ground to make way for apartment blocks. The old Mangalemi district has recently been inscribed on UNESCO's world heritage list. Enjoy an afternoon guided tour of the town and the looming fortress, the kala, built during the 13th century and still inhabited. The walk to the castle is steep and slippery so better bring some proper footwear with you. The views from the top across Berat and the Osum river valley are well worth the effort though.

Day 6 Lake Ohrid

Travel by private bus to Ohrid in North Macedonia, a drive of about 3 hours, situated on a lake with the same name. Europe’s oldest lake, and one of the oldest human settlements in the world, Ohrid has a wealth of historic sites and religious monuments to discover. Ohrid is an eternal town, a magical hill whose primordial pulsation links ancient and modern times forever. The town is said to have once been home to 365 churches, one for each day of the year, earning it the nickname “the Macedonian Jerusalem”, while historical excavations date back to Neolithic times. Despite being a World Heritage site for over 30 years, the town remains off the radar for visitors. Get your bearings on an orientation walk around Ohrid, maybe picking up a bargain or two in the vibrant Old Bazaar. Then embark on a scenic cruise on the turquoise waters of Lake Ohrid, ringed by mountains, attractive villages and beaches, and take in the views of the town and the surrounding scenery while afloat.

Day 7 Lake Ohrid

At 34 kilometres long, 14 kilometres wide, and over 300 meters deep, all shared between Albania and North Macedonia, there’s plenty of vast Lake Ohrid to explore. Today is free for you to discover the area. There are many churches and monasteries to visit, but one of the most popular is the Macedonian Orthodox Church of Sveti Jovana Kaneo, situated on a rocky outcrop above the town, overlooking the lake. Past the church you can wander around to the back of town, exploring the old walls and fortress, and admiring the views of the lake. The Sveti Naum Monastery is also a great option, lying on the shores of the lake south of town, with well-kept grounds that are home to peacocks. The ancient Tsar Samoil’s Fortress stands on the top of Ohrid Hill and looks across the town, while a 2,000-year-old Roman theatre was uncovered near the Upper Gate – in summer it’s again being used for concerts and performances.

Day 8 Skopje

This morning hop onto public bus to Skopje, North Macedonia's capital city (approximately 3 hours). In Macedonia’s political and cultural centre, walk past Byzantine domes, Turkish baths, and also newly built neo-classical buildings and grand monuments (aimed to bolster national pride), sampling gozleme and tasty baklava along the way. The 30 mosques, innumerable caravanserais and hamams that fill its winding streets are a testament to Skopje’s Ottoman past. Take a step back to those times with a visit to the Daut Pasha Hamam, or journey through the humbling Holocaust Museum to learn how Macedonia suffered during this tragic chapter of history. Get lost in the narrow lanes of Carsija: Skopje's most atmospheric neighbourhood, or take in the stone bridge over the river Vardar – an iconic sight that acts as a handy connection between Macedonia Square and the Old Bazaar. Perhaps visit the Museum of the City of Skopje, housed in the old Railway Station, which is itself a unique piece of history. Its unusual, part-ruined exterior is a result of the 1963 earthquake. The large clock on the outside of the building is frozen at 5.17 – the moment the earthquake shook the city.

Day 9 Matka Canyon / Skopje

Venture out to Matka Canyon, a deep ravine cut into the Suva mountains by the Treska River, 15 kilometres south-west of the city. This area is home to several medieval monasteries, caves, and over 70 species of butterflies. You could also take up the option to explore the canyon's sights by boat. One of the monasteries worth exploring is St Andrew's Monastery, which contains many superb frescoes of great artistic importance. There is also Vrelo cavern: a water-filled cave with incredible stalagmites and unchartered depths; it's speculated to be the deepest underwater cave in the world. Alternatively, you can take one of the many nature walks in the canyon, or up to tracks that hug the ridge high above the valley. Return back to Skopje, with the remaining part of the day free for you to continue exploring this exciting city. Perhaps take the Mount Vodno cable car to the giant 66-metre high Millennium Cross, mainly for the views back down across the city. For dinner this evening, why not head to the Old Bazaar, or the restaurants in the Debar Maalo area.

Day 10 Pelister National Park / Bitola

Today, continue your adventure with a bus ride to the town of Bitola, located near Pelister National Park. Pelister is North Macedonia’s oldest national park covering 171 square kilometres of the Baba massif (type of mountainous geological formation). Eight peaks in this park are over 2000 metres, with Mt Pelister the highest at 2601 metres. Close to the top are two glacial lakes, known as ‘Pelister’s Eyes’. Today, you’ll get the chance to explore the stunning greenery in Pelister on an easy 2-hour hike of the park’s lower trails, passing through the lush forests and breathing in the crisp mountain air. Head to the information centre to learn more about the endemic flora and fauna. Return to Bitola for the night.

Day 11 Kastoria

Travel with private transport to the border with Greece and then continue to Kastoria. This medieval town sits on the western shore of Lake Orestiada, in a valley surrounded by limestone mountains. Kastoria is full of interesting Byzantine churches and Ottoman-style architecture, including old distinctive villas from the skin and fur trade times. Once you arrive, take an orientation walk along the labyrinthine lanes, with time to walk along the lakeside, where boats bob, Dalmatian pelicans and ducks make ripples on the water, and coniferous trees and mountains surround in the distance. Later, consider visiting the unspoilt Spilia tou Drakou, or Dragon Cave, one of the most impressive caves in Greece, and see stalactites and underground lakes in this mysterious natural wonder once believed to be a gold mine guarded by a sleepless dragon.

Day 12 Litochoro

Enjoy a free morning in Kastoria. Perhaps visit the Neolithic lakeside village and reconstruction at Dispilio, which gives you a real feel for life in a village in the middle of the 6th millennium BC. After lunch transfer by private vehicle to the town of Litochoro at the base of Mt Olympus. Upon arrival head out on a short orientation walk to familiarise yourself with the surroundings. Head down to the beach at Plaka for some well-deserved relaxation and a dip in the Aegean Sea before tomorrow's hike. Perhaps have dinner in one of the fish tavernas lining the sea shore, and indulge in some traditional dishes.

Day 13 Mt Olympus National Park / Litochoro

Mount Olympus, Greece's first national park, is the highest mountain in Greece and the second highest in the Balkans, with a height of 2918 metres. The mountain is famous in Greek mythology as it is the dwelling of the twelve Olympian gods, headed by Zeus. Mytikas peak was the gods’ meeting place, and Stefani peak was the Throne of Zeus from where he was said to have displayed his mighty power by throwing thunderbolts. Head out early today for a hike along a lush trail within the national park to a beautiful waterfall. If it's a hot day, why not brave the cold water? Just don't forget to bring your swimming costume! There is the option to visit the monastery of St Dionysios on the way back into town. The rest of the day is free for you to continue enjoying the surrounding countryside or simply take in the view of the mountain from the vantage point of the nearby beach.

Day 14 Athens

Board a public bus to Athens, the beating heart of Greece, and the centre of the ancient world (approximately 5.5 hours). After arriving and transferring to your central hotel, there's much to be seen in the capital of Greece, vibrant and refreshed following the 2004 Olympics, yet still retaining so much visible history. Named after the goddess of wisdom, Athens has a weighty history that spills out over the modern city, represented most dramatically by the ancient Acropolis, where you can enter the Pantheon and enjoy fabulous views over the city. The birthplace of Western civilisation, Athens has an amazing array of historic sites to explore, including the National Gardens, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the original Olympic Stadium. Another highlight is the renowned changing of the guard at Syntagma (Parliament) Square. Afterwards, perhaps tuck into a delicious dinner of Greek cuisine and a shot (or two) of ouzo.

Day 15 Athens

There are no activities planned for today and you are able to depart the accommodation at any time. As there is so much to see and do in Greece's capital you may want to extend your stay here. We’ll happy to assist with additional accommodation (subject to availability).

DAY 1
Depart U.S.
Depart the U.S. today for your overnight flight to Thessaloniki, Greece.

DAY 2
Arrive Thessaloniki, Greece
Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Hotel or similar

Upon arrival in Thessaloniki, an OAT representative will meet you at the airport. You’ll transfer to our hotel, and meet your Trip Leader and fellow travelers, including those who took our optional pre-trip extension to Istanbul, Turkey. Later, dinner is on your own this evening.

DAY 3
Explore Thessaloniki
Meals included: B D Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Hotel or similar

Today, we’ll explore Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and the capital of the northern Greek region of Macedonia (not to be confused with the neighboring Republic of Macedonia). First, we’ll board a bus to visit historic Ano Poli (Upper Town), the only section of the city that managed to escape the devastating Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917. We’ll wander through Ano Poli to admire the Byzantine churches, traditional pastel-painted homes, and restaurants that cater to the locals.

Then, we'll drive back to the city center where we'll stop to sample some local Greek sweets before stopping at two of Thessaloniki’s bustling traditional markets—the city’s main street market, Modiano; and Kapini, a 200-year-old market perched on a hilltop, with local shops and tavernas. After time for lunch on our own, we’ll visit the Museum of Byzantine Culture to view its extensive collections of sculpture, frescoes, mosaics, and icons from the Byzantine period.

Later this afternoon, we'll enjoy a discussion on contemporary Greek politics and the economy, followed by a Welcome Drink and Welcome Dinner at a local restaurant.

DAY 4
Thessaloniki • Mount Olympus • Nature hike
Meals included: B L Accommodations: Mediterranean Palace Hotel or similar

After breakfast, we’ll set off by coach to Mount Olympus, mythical home of the ancient Greek gods. We'll enjoy a hike around the foot of legendary mountain where Alexander the Great made sacrifices before setting off to conquer the world. After taking in the natural beauty of our surroundings, we’ll meet our coach and drive to the village of Litohoro, where we’ll enjoy an included lunch before returning to Thessaloniki and the rest of the afternoon at leisure. Please note: Depending on weather conditions, our hike at the base of Mount Olympus may be replaced with a hike further up the mountain from Prionia to the Monastery of St. Dionysius.

Dinner is on your own this evening.

DAY 5
Thessaloniki • Royal Tombs of Vergina • Meteora
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar

After breakfast, we begin our journey to Meteora, stopping en route at the village of Vergina, home to Aigai, the ancient capital of the Macedonian kings. Discovered beneath a man-made hill almost 40 years ago by Greek archaeologist Manolis Andronikos, the sacred site contains the fourth-century BC tombs of King Philip II—father of Alexander the Great—and other ancient royals, along with numerous items of daily life from the Macedonian era, housed in an underground museum.

After an included lunch, we'll continue our drive to Meteora. Upon arrival, we’ll check into our hotel followed by dinner at a local restaurant featuring a syrtaki dance performance—with a chance for you to learn and try out some of the steps made famous in the movie Zorba the Greek.

DAY 6
Explore Monasteries of Meteora
Meals included: B D Accommodations: Doupiani House or similar

This morning, we’ll witness the towering rock formations of the region, on top of which are built the famous monasteries of Meteora, some of which date back to the early 14th century. The word meteora actually means “suspended in the air,” and these astonishing retreats are indeed perched atop pinnacles that rise about 1,000 feet from the valley floor. For centuries, the monasteries served as Christian redoubts while the Ottoman Turks ruled Greece, and this morning we’ll visit two of these historic structures, which will be dependent on local restrictions at the time. Then, after lunch on your own in Kalambaka Town, we’ll visit a nearby icon-painting workshop, followed by leisure time to pursue individual discoveries.

This evening, we’ll regroup to head out to a local restaurant for dinner featuring an accompaniment of Greek music.

DAY 7
Meteora • Visit Metsovo village • Ioannina • Zagoria
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort or similar

After breakfast, we set off to Metsovo, a small village nestled in the Pindus Mountains renowned for its stone mansions, cobbled streets, and longstanding cultural and craft traditions. We’ll explore Metsovo’s picturesque town square and enjoy a cooking lesson from a family that owns a local taverna, where we’ll learn to prepare handmade pies, a regional specialty. We'll have lunch while our pies are baking, and then get to sample our freshly-baked creations.

This afternoon, our discoveries continue in Ioannina, a regional capital situated on the western shores of Lake Pamvotis. Ioannina was founded by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian in the sixth century AD, and was often referred to as the “Metropolis of knowledge” during Byzantine times. We’ll have some free time to stroll through the downtown area of this ancient lakeside city before arriving at our hotel in one of Zagoria’s mountain villages.

We’ll enjoy an included dinner together this evening.

DAY 8
Explore Zagoria • Optional Vikos Gorge Rafting OPTIONAL TOUR
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Aristi Mountain Resort or similar

This morning, we’ll journey into the past to explore Zagoria, a magical region in the Pindus Mountains dotted with hidden villages linked by mountain roads and arched stone bridges. We'll stop in Vitsa, a centuries-old village perched on a mountain slope near the Vikos Gorge. About 12 miles long and a depth of some 3,000 feet in spots, Guinness lists Vikos as the world’s deepest canyon. Travelers can elect to hike down the famous Vitsa stairs (which date from the 17th century), down to the tiny village of Kapesovo. After lunch at a local restaurant, we'll return to our hotel, with the rest of the afternoon at leisure.

Or, you may join our optional Vikos Gorge Rafting excursion, which features a gentle raft ride along the crystal-clear waters of the Voidomatis River with experienced local guides, along with a monastery visit.

Dinner is included this evening at our hotel.

DAY 9
Journey to Albania • Explore Butrint • Gjirokaster
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Hotel Kalemi 2 or similar

After breakfast, we leave Greece and cross the border into Albania. we embark on an excursion to explore the stunning ruins of Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inhabited since prehistoric times, Butrint was the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city, and a bishopric of the Byzantine Empire. Following a period of prosperity under the Byzantines, then a brief occupation by the Venetians, the city was abandoned in the late Middle Ages after marshes formed in the area. We’ll explore the archaeological site on foot, marveling at the repository of ruins representing each period in the ancient city’s development.

Then, we’ll enjoy an included lunch at the nearby seaside resort town of Saranda before arriving at our hotel in Gjirokaster. Dinner this evening is at a local restaurant.

DAY 10
Explore Gjirokaster • Visit a traditional Albanian village
Meals included: B L Accommodations: Hotel Kalemi 2 or similar

After breakfast, we explore the southern Albanian hillside town of Gjirokaster, whose collection of Ottoman-era mansions is listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Birthplace of Albanian dictator Enver Hoxha, Gjirokaster is nicknamed the “City of Stone” for the distinctive stone roofs adorning its old homes. Our morning discoveries feature a walk through the steep cobblestone streets of the Ottoman bazaar whose origins go back to the 17th century.

Then, we’ll visit the small village of Dhoksat, where we’ll be treated to a community lunch with members of a local family. After lunch, we'll return to Gjirokaster where you can spend the rest of the afternoon pursuing independent discoveries. Dinner is on your own this evening.

DAY 11
Journey to Tirana • Excursion to Berat
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Kotoni Boutique Hotel or similar

After breakfast, we begin our journey to Tirana, with a stop along the way through Albania’s wine-producing region to witness the stunning collection of Ottoman-style homes of Berat, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our discoveries will include Berat Castle, a 2,500-year old fortress and “living castle” situated high above the Osum River, where we’ll also enjoy an included lunch. Then, we’ll walk the narrow streets of Old Town, and visit Mangalemi and Gorica, neighborhoods connected by a stone bridge over the river to discover why Berat is nicknamed the “town of a thousand and one windows.”

We’ll arrive in Tirana early this evening, and enjoy an included dinner at a local restaurant in Blloku, or the Block, site of the former dictator Enver Hoxha's villa—once forbidden to the public, the Block is now one of the city’s most vibrant districts.

DAY 12
Explore Tirana • Optional Kruja tour OPTIONAL TOUR
Meals included: B Accommodations: Kotoni Boutique Hotel or similar
After breakfast, we visit the National History Museum to learn about Albania's turbulent history before and after World War II, along with the country's post-war difficulties under a Communist regime. Then, we'll gain further insights into Albania during a discussion with a local journalist. The city was founded in 1614 by Sulejman Pasha, who was drawn here by its location at the crossroads of caravan routes, and flourished until the 19th century, when the death of the founder’s grand-nephew, Kaplan Pasha, left the city under the control of a megalomaniac, Esat Toptani. It was not until Tirana was named the capital of Albania in 1920 that it began to thrive again. Today, mud-brick houses and cobbled alleyways have largely been replaced by modern architecture and wide paved streets, hills have been reforested and inviting parks created, and the gray façades that characterized the Communist regime now exude a jumble of bright colors.

We'll take in panoramic views of the city from Sky Tower, a rotating observation deck situated high atop an office building close to Tirana's main square. Then, the remainder of the day is at leisure, with lunch and dinner on your own. Or, you can join an afternoon optional tour to Kruja, the fortified hilltop town from which Albania’s national hero Skenderbeg led the 15th-century resistance against the Turks, with lunch included.

DAY 13
Journey to Ohrid, Macedonia
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Hotel Tino or similar

After breakfast, we’ll depart Tirana and make our way to Ohrid, the picturesque hillside city set along the shores of Lake Ohrid in the Republic of Macedonia. Upon arrival in Ohrid, we'll have a brief orientation walk followed by lunch at a local restaurant. Then, we’ll check into our hotel, and you'll have the remainder of the afternoon at leisure.

This evening, we'll gather together and head out to a local restaurant for an included dinner featuring a performance of Macedonian folk music.

DAY 14
Explore Ohrid • Boat ride to Bay of the Bones "Museum on Water"
Meals included: B Accommodations: Hotel Tino or similar
Discover St Petersburg on a guided tour
Combining historical heritage with natural beauty, the town of Ohrid is Macedonia’s crown jewel. Set on the shores of Lake Ohrid, the lakeside town is one of Europe’s oldest human settlements—and the entire Ohrid region is listed by UNESCO as a Natural and Cultural Heritage Site. We’ll enjoy a walking tour along the narrow streets of Ohrid’s compact Old Town, a blend of beautiful old churches, modern restaurants, and vibrant cafés. We'll also visit a workshop specializing in world-renowned Ohrid pearls, created through a secret process passed down by just a few local families over several generations. Then, we'll take a boat ride along the lake’s azure waters to the Bay of the Bones and its “Museum on Water,” an open-air reconstruction of a Neolithic lake dwelling based on artifacts found on the surrounding lake bed.

After lunch on our own, the rest of the day is at leisure to pursue individual interests in Ohrid. Or you may wish to simply relax along the lakeside promenade to take in the region’s natural beauty. Dinner is also on your own this evening.

DAY 15
Ohrid • Explore a Macedonian village
Meals included: B L Accommodations: Hotel Tino or similar

After breakfast, we head out to explore Elshani, a traditional Macedonian village nestled between the mountains and Lake Ohrid. We'll meet with some villagers in their homes as they prepare a meal of traditional Macedonian food. While our lunch is in the oven, we'll board donkeys (or remain on foot) and head to the local spring or in search of firewood to get a true feel for the local traditions have endured for centuries in this tranquil region. We'll also visit a local school (when in session), sponsored in part by Grand Circle Foundation, where we can interact with the teachers and mingle with the schoolchildren. Afterward, we’ll meet back in the village square for a Community-Hosted Lunch with some of the village families that have welcomed us into their homes.

After lunch, we return to Ohrid for the remainder of the afternoon at leisure. Dinner is on your own this evening.

DAY 16
Depart for Skopje • Discover Tetovo • Boat ride in Matka Canyon
Meals included: B L D Accommodations: Hotel StoneBridge

After breakfast, we depart for Skopje. Along the way, we'll enjoy a stop in Tetovo, where we’ll visit the city’s unique Šarena Džamija, an ancient mosque decorated with bright floral paintings. Then, we’ll drive to Matka Canyon, a deep mountain gorge surrounding a man-made lake formed by the damming of the River Treska. After lunch at a local restaurant, we’ll view some of the region’s stunning scenery during a boat ride along the river canyon, and learn about the region’s ecosystem at one of the many natural caves found here.

Upon our arrival in Skopje, well check in to our hotel, enjoy a brief orientation walk to familiarize ourselves with the area, and then head out for an included dinner at a local restaurant.

DAY 17
Explore Skopje
Meals included: B D Accommodations: Hotel StoneBridge

After breakfast, we’ll explore several highlights of the Macedonian capital on a walking tour, including the rich repository of historical and cultural heritage at the Macedonian Museum and the old Turkish bazaar.

After lunch on your own, the balance of the afternoon is set aside for individual pursuits in Skopje. This evening, we’ll gather together to celebrate our discoveries during a festive Farewell Dinner at a local restaurant featuring music.

DAY 18
Skopje • Return to U.S. or begin post-trip extension
Meals included: B
After breakfast, we transfer to the airport for our return flight home, or to begin our post-trip extension to Serbia: Nis & Belgrade.